French Superstitions Around Food: The Do’s and Dont’s of Eating in France

Cafe Pause in the 11th arrondissement. Image Credit: Chris Gold

Although eating out in Paris is a must do when visiting the city, it is important to be polite and if you can, remember customs specific to dining in France that make the hosts and those around you feel at ease.

“There are a lot of superstitions about food in France because food is so important to the French,” said Lisa Rankin, founder of Flavors of Paris.

Here is a list of some of the most common french superstitions surrounding food and how to eat like a local while visiting Paris.

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Table First

This superstition exemplifies the significance of mealtimes in everyday life in France. The first thing that goes through the door when moving into a new home in France is the table. This guarantees your time in the home will be filled with good fortune. Yep. having a table for a place to dine takes precedence over a bed for a place to sleep.

Never put the baguette upside down on the table.

Across France, baguettes are in their own sacred food group cherished among locals and tourists alike. But one thing you might not know about France’s favourite bread is the dark history attached to it. In the Middle Ages, executions took place in the public square for everyone to witness. The French feared the executioners with hatred. No one approached him, and bakers were reluctant to serve him. It took a royal decree to force the bakers to set aside bread for these pariahs.

The bakers were none too happy about having to bake bread for the executioners, and folks believed that the loaves for the executioners were filled with hostility, by picking up the misgivings of the bakers while preparing it. So these baguettes were placed upside down on the bakery counter to avoid any confusion with the rest of the batch.

In addition, according to folklore, executioners were allowed to grab things in shops without paying for them so bakers would specifically pick the worst of the batch of baguettes to serve to the executioners.

The superstition continues in France today. You’ll be hard pressed to find a baguette that has been placed with the flat side facing up in bakeries, groceries, markets and restaurants.

Many French people claim laying a baguette face down means risking a hunger curse to you and all those who eat it. However, if you accidentally put the bread upside down on the table, legend has it that you must draw a cross with your knife on the flat side of the baguette before cutting it to erase the curse. Better safe than sorry.

“Although this superstition is still prevalent today, there is a small hitch in the story”, Rankin explains. “Well, actually a significant one”, she continues. “The story is said to have begun during medieval times, but the baguette only originated roughly between 1830 and 1900. If you do the math. It doesn’t add up, but the story is still a good one none-the-less.”

Don’t offer a knife to a friend or family member

French chef’s knife. Image credit: Didriks

In France, offering a friend of family member a knife as a gift can be inappropriate or offensive. The gesture is often interpreted to mean that you want to cut off your relationship or friendship with them.

According to the superstition, to avoid breaking the tie between you and a friend, have them give you a small amount of money for the knife instead. The amount is irrelevant in this case, as the money serves to change the present into a transaction, therefore breaking the curse tied to gifting a knife. This allows the relationship to continue without worries of a severed connection in the future.

Clink with everyone and look them in the eye

Clinking wine glasses among dinner guests is the French way of celebrating a meal together. Image Credit: Dutch Baby

The French love wine and celebrating with family and friends. But when it comes to cheering, they have certain rules for how to do it correctly.

“Even today there is quite a strict protocol when you are cheering with wine,” Lisa explained. “You clink everyone in the group who has a wine glass and you always look them in the eye. You never cheer a person with water or a non-alcoholic beverage because that is bad luck, and those rules are strictly adhered to.”

This tradition gives everyone at the table a moment to appreciate the company they are dining with and the wine they are about to consume. It is an opportunity to reflect on the meal at hand and give thanks for the people you are sharing it with.

Avoid 13 guests at a dinner party

According to a Gallic superstition, hosting a dinner party with 13 people in France will bring you and the guests bad luck. This tradition stems from Judas at the Last Supper, as he ended up being a traitor and the meal had 13 guests.

While this superstition is not often discussed among the French today, many still avoid having thirteen guests at a dinner party because of the historic and biblical significance of the number.

Don’t spill the salt

In Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper, Judas can be seen knocking over a small salt dish with his forearm (pictured third from the right). Image Credit: Alberto Fernandez Fernandez

According to the Christian tradition, spilling table salt means bad luck. This superstition is also heavily connected to Judas in the Last Supper. In Leonardo da Vinci’s famous depiction of the meal, Judas can be seen knocking over a pot of salt.

Based on the folklore, if salt was spilled during a dinner party in France it was determined you would get into an argument with the friend sitting in front of you. In order to avoid this, the French will grab a pinch of salt to throw over their left shoulder and rid themselves of the bad luck.

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How to Picnic in Paris

The Parisians are crazy about picnicking. Throughout my 10 years living in Paris, I have been on more picnics than I had been on in my entire life before I moved here.

Start your journey off the eaten path here!

On a weekend afternoon or evening, you will see crowds of Parisians with their blankets, food and friends, sprawled on the grass of the many parks and gardens across Paris.

During the pandemic in particular, when all the cafes and restaurants have been closed, enjoying some open-air dining has been a welcome respite from being cooped up indoors, and the parks in and around Paris are much busier than usual with picnickers.

So when you are visiting Paris, consider having a picnic. It’s the perfect way to experience the city like one of the locals.

What are the best picnic spots in Paris?

The quays along the Seine

This is one of the more obvious places to go, but you can’t go wrong by choosing a nice spot by the river. A popular location for the Parisians is on the Ile St-Louis and near Pont des Arts.

Square du Vert-Galant, located on the tip of the Ile St-Louis is a particularly nice spot. You can sit right on the edge of the bank and get a close up view of the river boats passing by.

Place des Vosges in the Marais

If you like to feel like royalty on your picnic, the Place des Vosges is for you. This is one of the prettiest squares in Paris and was once called Place Royale. The residences surrounding it were inhabited by nobility and in the 17th and 18th centuries and Place des Vosges was one of the most fashionable and exclusive addresses in Paris.

Today, the square is surrounded by luxury apartments, shops, private art galleries and cafes.

Canal Saint-Martin

Having a picnic along the shady, tree lined banks of this 19th century waterway is always a good choice. This area is quickly gentrifying. There are plenty of shabby chic shops, cafes and bakeries to explore nearby.

Parc des Buttes Chaumont

This beautiful, hilly park in the 19th district is one of the larger parks in Paris. It’s full of pathways, and has a pond with bridges, a waterfall and grottos. The sloping lawns make perfect tranquil picnicking spots.

Parc Monceau

Situated in the 8th district, Parc Monceau is elegant and romantic. Beautiful wrought iron gates embellished with gold, adorn the entranceway. You will find numerous statues dotted around the park, and a large pond.

Trocadéro Gardens or the Champ de Mars

Of course, the most iconic of picnic spots in Paris would be either one of these two places since you will have the Eiffel Tower in full view. And although, it's a touristy place, the Parisians love to picnic there too.

To prepare for your picnic, you can do some shopping at the local markets, boulangeries, or try out one of these ready to go picnic lunches.

AiL Ma Cocotte

Apero and picnic baskets (delivery). Available to rent and plates / glassware needs to be returned within 3 days. Coursed meals and vegetarian options.

Beaugrain

Offer a two person picnic basket as well as a 6 person basket. Comes with bread, ham, rilette, cheese, tarama and wine.

Yannick Alleno

High-end Michelin star restaurant that now offers delivery and pick up options. Picnic basket option available for two as well as aperitif basket.

FFA (Féderation Françiase de l’Aperitf)

Order online or go to one of the boutiques at either of the two locations in Paris. Mostly cheeses, tapanades and charcuterie.

La boucherie Grégoire

You can call ahead and place your order for a picnic for two and pick it up on Saturdays.

And don’t forget to bring a refreshing bottle of wine and a corkscrew. These accoutrements are musts if you’re going to have a true Parisian picnic.

Open AIR Art to See in Paris - And It's Free!

One of my favourite words in french just happens to be flâner. Perhaps the most Parisian of all french words, the term was coined in the 19th century as the art of leisurely strolling the streets of Paris, with no destination in mind, simply for the pleasure of taking in its beauty.

Art is everywhere you look in Paris. Meander through any avenue, park or side street and something is bound to catch your eye. So next time you find yourself in the world capital of flâneurs, do as the flâneurs do and take a tour of the open-air exhibits - for free!

Many of the green spaces within the city feature art. From Jardin des Tuileries to Jardin du Luxembourg, there are wonderful outdoor exhibitions in Paris parks and gardens. You can even find over thirty modern sculptures along the banks of the Seine as part of the Musée de la Sculpture en Plein Air, or the Open Air Sculpture Museum.

Place Igor Stravinski, Photo credit: art_inthecity

If street art is something that interests you there are a few places you can go to admire it.

• Along the Canal de l’Ourcq and Canal St-Denis, in the Northeast side of Paris, there is a range of lovely colourful street art celebrating the diversity and culture of the city that gets added to every year.

• You’ll find art scattered randomly around the historic Marais neighbourhood as well as some larger-scale works including the mural of Salvador Dali located in the Place Igor Stravinksy. You can also enjoy sitting by the fountain animated colourful sculptures, by Jean Tinguely and Niki de Saint Phalle that spin and spurt jets of water. It’s located beside the Pompidou Centre, 2 Rue Brisemiche, 75004 which is worth a visit in itself.

• The 6th arrondissement of Paris pays homage to the celebrated songwriter and composer Serge Gainsbourg, 5 bis Rue de Verneuil. Just outside of his home, where he lived until his death, a large scale portrait of the musician alongside endless messages covers the walls.

• Stop by le mur Oberkampf in the 11th arrondissements to see the latest artist featured on the dedicated, association-coordinated wall. As with all street art, it will be eventually replaced and typically a new artist is invited to transform the wall every few weeks.

• In the 10th and 11th arrondissements, the 2 km long street rue Saint-Maur is perfect for exploring. One of Paris’ well known female street artists, Kashink, currently has some recent work on display.

Rue Saint Maur, Photo credit Jeanne Menjoulet

Check out these ongoing outdoor exhibitions

The famous sculptor, Michel Bassompierre, has just installed five animals within the Jardin des Plantes to be discovered during your stroll. Currently on display, the “Fragiles colossus” exposition will be available until August 30, 2021.

Paris’ La Defense is the business district and comprises an open-air museum with sixty-nine monumental pieces included in its collection. From June 24 until October 3, 2021 head over to see the fourth edition of “Les Extatiques” with featured artists to be released soon.

Walk around the construction fences surrounding Notre Dame and find over 50 children’s drawings on display. Submitted in response to the “Dessine-moi Notre Dame”, which literally translated is “Draw me Notre Dame” initiative, the drawings are personal depictions of the emotions the children felt after the fire that broke out in the cathedral.

What To Do When You Visit Paris - 6 Unusual Museums in Paris

While the Louvre and Musée d'Orsay museums are usually at the top of tourists’ lists when visiting Paris, the city has about 130 museums in total for visitors and locals to explore. If you’re looking for a more unique experience away from the madding crowds, here are some of the most unusual museums in Paris that are worth the visit:

1.  Musée Carnavalet / The Carnavalet Museum

The gardens at Musée Carnavalet in July. Image Credit: Oliver Mallich

If you are looking for a history museum dedicated to Paris’ tumultuous past, the Musée Carnavalet is a must see in the Marais district. Located in the heart of the third arrondissement, Musée Carnavalet is the oldest museum in Paris and highlights the history of the city with exhibits on Parisian art, culture, decorative arts and archeology.

“One of my favorite museums that is not one that a lot of people know is Carnevale. It’s located in the heart of the Marais,” says Flavors of Paris Founder and CEO, Lisa Rankin. “It is in a beautiful private mansion that will be opening to the public once again after an extensive renovation. It is filled with curiosities about Paris. And best of all. It’s free.”

According to the museum’s website, The Chatillon Architectes agency just completed a four year renovation project on the Musée Carnavalet updating the building’s facades, floors and courtyards. The renovation project was also instrumental in the museum’s new cafe and restaurant which was built overlooking the gardens on the second floor.

Inside the museum’s expansive collection of Parisian artifacts. Image Credit: Oliver Mallich

One of Lisa’s favorite parts of the museum is the top floor, which is dedicated entirely to the French Revolution and how Paris changed during that time.

“It is really interesting if you want to learn more about the history of Paris and if you want to see some curious Parisian antiques,” Lisa said. “It is a really fun place and it is not usually very crowded.”

Upon its reopening, the museum’s new exhibit features the work of Henri Cartier-Bresson, one of the most renowned French photographers of the 20th century. The exhibition will display the photographer’s original prints, publications and videos of the artists for public viewing.

2.  Maison Européenne de la Photographie/ The House of European Photography

Image Credit: Victor Tsu

Located in the fourth arrondissement, (also the Marais), Maison Européenne de la Photographie is a museum dedicated entirely to contemporary photography and highlights the three fundamental photographic mediums of film, exhibition prints and the printed page.

The museum, which opened to the public in 1996, is housed inside the Hotel Henault de Cantobre and built in 1706. The exhibition offers viewers a look into the diverse realm of photography with artists from around the world.

The Maison Européenne de la Photographie is three floors and offers revolving exhibitions to display new and upcoming works as well as pay tribute to the greats in photography. Many of the displays are also interactive allowing visitors to connect with the art rather than just observe the pieces on the wall like other museums.

4. Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

Image Credit: Daniel Hennemand

Found in the sixteenth arrondissement, the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris is an art museum with an incredible collection dedicated to contemporary and modern works of the 20th and 21st centuries.

The museum offers expansive murals such as the first two versions of La Danse by Matisse and Raoul Dufy’s exquisite masterpiece La Fée électricité. as a main attraction for visitors and reopened in 2019 after a €10 million renovation and redesign project.

With over 15,000 works on display inside the museum and new exhibitions introduced every six weeks, there is always something to check out on a returning visit to Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris. The museum is also one of the largest collections of modern and contemporary art in France and features major artists including Picasso, Modigliani, Derain, Chagall, Boltanski, Parreno, and Peter Doig.

Inside the museum, the exhibition displays vintage perfume bottles with varying scents.

Image Credit: Marie Manuel

5. Musée du Parfum Fragonard

Dedicated entirely to fragrance, the Musée du Parfum Fragonard is the French museum of perfume educating viewers about the history of perfume making in France. The museum offers free 30 minute tours everyday led by a perfumier where visitors can learn all about the process of making perfume and what ingredients make everyone’s signature perfume scent unique.

Located in the heart of the ninth arrondissement, the museum also highlights Paris’ role as the fashion capital of the world and the many signature scents of haute couture houses in Paris.

While exploring the museum, visitors will discover antique perfume bottles, toiletry sets and the complicated history of perfume making in Paris set among 19th century rooms.

The museum also offers a 90 minute customized perfume making workshop where visitors can create their own signature perfume. The experience costs €95, but is well worth the price given every participant leaves the workshop with a personalized 100 milliliter bottle of their own perfume of choice.

Discover your personal fragrance here!

6. Maison de Victor Hugo

Inside the museum, visitors can explore Victor Hugo’s dining room. Image Credit: Zairon

Located in the fourth arrondissement, the Maison de Victor Hugo is the former house of the esteemed French novelist and poet. The property has been restored since the 19th century, when Hugo lived there between 1832 and 1848, but is kept in the condition in which he lived in it making visitors feel also though they are travelling through time to explore his life.

The Maison de Victor Hugo features the writer’s many belongings including the original furniture, written work and art so it is a must-see for any fans of The Hunchback of Notre Dame when visiting Paris.

A visitor stops to sketch one of the works in the large plaster gallery inside the museum.

Image Credit: Velvet

7. Musée Bourdelle

For fans of sculpture and outdoor art exhibitions, theis a hidden gem in the 15th arrondissement. The museum is dedicated entirely to the work of Antoine Bourdelle, a prolific French sculptor who studied under Auguste Rodin in the late 19th century.

The Musée Bourdelle preserved Bourdelle’s art studio after he died in 1929 and has undergone two expansions since it first opened to the public in 1949. The museum is free of charge and has over 500 works on display including marble, bronze and plaster statues and Bourdelle’s own collection of artwork.

Like the Rodin museum, the Musée Bourdelle has an expansive sculpture garden for visitors to explore Bourdelle’s bronze statues in a courtyard and fully experience the artist’s vision for making his life’s work into a museum.

8. Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature

Among the museum’s collection of antique weapons and vintage guns, taxidermy animals surround the walls of the exhibition on hunting and history. Image Credit: Jamie Anderson

Found in the third arrondissement, the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature is dedicated to all things hunting including hunting weapons, decorative art, trophies, accessories and taxidermy animals.

“It is one that people wouldn’t think of going to, but surprisingly fun,” Lisa said. “People really enjoy when they go. I think it is an underrated museum in Paris.”

The museum houses many different types of art with artifacts from natural history, eclectic works of contemporary art and ancient art. While the museum is currently closed for renovations and expansions to the exhibitions, the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature announced plans to reopen in the spring of 2021.

9. Musée du Chocolat

Inside the museum, one exhibition displays a vintage advertisement for chocolate bars.

Image Credit: Larry Wentzel

At the Chocolate Museum in Paris, visitors can explore the history of chocolate, taste all you can eat chocolate creations, meet professional chocolatiers and create their own chocolates. The Musée du Chocolat, located in the 10th arrondissement, is a popular excursion for families travelling to Paris during Christmas or Halloween and a perfect place to take any true chocolate lover.

The museum takes about 1.5 hours to visit with guided tours available and free audio guides for visitors. The Musée du Chocolat website recommends booking your tickets in advance to avoid crowds and offers guests “real hot chocolate” with a choice of trying the Aztec recipe, Spanish recipe, speculoos, hazelnut, milk or dark chocolate.